Titanium exhaust wrap, with LR Technology, is made from pulverized lava rock and stranded into a fiber material and is engineered to be stronger than typical wraps on the market today. It has the ability to handle higher heat for improved performance and durability – and with a cool carbon fiber look!
Wrapping headers and down pipes is an important first step in controlling unwanted underhood radiant heat. Keeping exhaust gases hotter within the exhaust system helps in decreasing exhaust density and increases exhaust flow. This improves exhaust scavenging resulting in cooler air intake temperatures for an improvement in performance and a gain in horsepower. Design Engineering stainless steel Locking Ties are the perfect way to fasten exhaust wrap for a easy, clean and professional installation.
| Price : $46.00Made from crushed volcanic rock, the Lava Wrap has all the same benefits as exhaust heat wrap with that trick carbon fiber look and improved durability. This exhaust wrap is 25 percent stronger than fiberglass wraps, giving it a prolonged life and greater durability. By wrapping the header and exhaust system, it maintains hotter exhaust gases, decreases the density, and that allows the exhaust gas to exit the system faster. Greater exhaust scavenging is produced helping to lower air intake temperatures. This gives you more horsepower. Volcanic header wrap also reduces radiant heat damage and can lower under hood temperatures by as much as 50 percent. the Lava Wrap withstands 1200F continuous (please note this is a real world tested rating, please don't believe over inflated temperature ratings of similar basalt/volcanic rock products) and 2000F intermittent. Give ythe headers and exhaust system a custom look with the Lava Wrap. the volcanic exhaust wrap can be fastened with Thermal-Tie, hose clamps, or wire.
Exhaust tip with logo embossed polished stainless, rolled edge angle cut, 3.00 inch dual pipe diameter x 2.50 inch x 7.50 inch, weld on, ea.
| Price : $459.00If you’re in the market for a replacement exhaust or just want something that offers you a little more power over stock, then look no further than Magnaflow for your aftermarket cat-back exhaust needs. Made of 100 percentage stainless steel and then fully polished to give it that extra shine, our Cat-Back Exhaust Systems not only perform, but also look good in the process. With applications available for vehicles, both new and old, ranging from passenger cars and racecars, to SUV’s and off-road trucks and everything in between, Magnaflow Performance Exhaust offers it all. Designed to bolt right on to your vehicle, with half-inch overlapped welding at each joint, every system is dyno-proven to produce power all while providing years of trouble free performance. Regardless of which Magnaflow exhaust system you choose, you will be assure to have a smooth, deep, drone free tone at all times.
Magnaflow Stainless Steel 2.5 inch Dual Cat-Back Exhaust System reduces engine heat, back pressure as well as improve exhaust scavenging for high power and performance of the engine. It is manufactured from heavy-duty stainless steel and features 2.5 inch tubes. This exhaust system is backed by a lifetime warranty.
| Price : $636.79 | Post Date : Jan 12, 2012 21:45:31Borla Stainless Steel Cat-Back Exhaust Systems are engineered to provide excellent exhaust emission and internal power generation. These exhausts feature a multi-core technology and are manufactured from austenitic stainless steel which offers long lasting durability. They are equipped with ultra-smooth mandrel bends ensuring maximum flow and power. These exhausts provide brilliant fuel economy and increase horsepower efficiently. They are corrosion resistant and ensure easy installation.
What does Bpu(Tm) stand for? (Bpu(Tm) is a trademark of SupraStore.com)
Basic operation Upgrades. These modifications are: A full distance three inch down-pipe (with or with-out high flow cats), 3" (75mm) or bigger cat-back exhaust system, raised boost (18psi), and the required boost cut eliminator (Greddy Bcc) needed to accomplish that boost without activating the factory fuel cut-off at 14-15psi. These are the modifications that have proven to contribute the best Hp-to-$$$ ratio.
What does the + mean when man says Bpu(Tm)+? And what is Apu?
That stands for any supplementary power producing modifications other than the basic Bpu(Tm) modifications. One "+" refers to Adj. Cam Gears and under-drive pulleys, the second "+" refers to a Fuel controller, Ecu upgrade, etc. For instance, a Supra with the Bpu(Tm) modifications, plus a front-mount intercooler, would be called Bpu(Tm)+. If you added cam gears to that, it would be Bpu(Tm)++, and so on. The "Bpu(Tm)" term is used until you have an upgraded turbo(s). Then it is referred to as Apu, industrialized operation upgrades. This designation pretty much covers every modification that can be performed.
What are the first machine modifications I should perform?
I suggest beginning with raising the boost of the stock turbos to roughly 18psi. This will wish a capability boost gauge and a boost cut eliminator (Greddy Bcc). You will accomplish 15 or so Psi with the stock Down Pipe in place. This will contribute an increasing of roughly 30rwhp. After those modifications are completed, it would be a logical next step to install the Down Pipe and Cat-Back Exhaust at the same time. You will now be at full Bpu(Tm).
What do all the varied "Free Mods" do?
There are many dissimilar "free mods" for the Supra Tt. I will cover just a few of them here. The ones I will cover fall into three categories, boost control, Egr disabling, and Ttc or True Twin Conversion.
Three of the boost operate mods are: Bleeder-T Mod, Clamp Mod, and the Vsv Bypass Mod. Each of these modifications raise boost levels without the use of a boost controller. But you have to keep a close eye on your boost gauge, and make sure they are not allowing the turbos to boost too high (18psi is a safe level).
The next mods, are the true twin conversion mods (or Ttc). This modification disables the Sequential twin turbo operation, and causes the turbos to run constantly in parallel (both on at the same time). This is supposed to allow for slightly best mid-range power (before the secondary turbo would usually come online) and allows for a smoother power band, without the abrupt boost increase caused by the transition from primary to secondary operation. However, this does noticeably decrease low-end power, and increases exhaust noise levels, and therefore may not be desirable on the street. Two types of the Ttc mod are, the primary Ttc mod which includes 2 methods, wiring the actuators, or installing a one way valve, and the Electronic Ttc mod (Ettc).
The last mod I will discuss is the Egr mod. This disables the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system, which is meant for emissions, and therefore, this modification is for off-road use only. This mod is supposed to forestall the super heating of the whole 5 and 6 cylinders, which may cause burnt valves.
How much power will my car make at Bpu(Tm)?
It varies from car-to-car, and the conditions as well as tuning. Most Bpu(Tm)-only Supra Twin Turbos, dyno between 370 and 410 horsepower at the rear wheels. This is usually achieved with moderate temperatures, a reset Ecu (to erase whatever bad the Ecu may have learned), and often a itsybitsy bit of high-octane un-leaded race fuel. On the street, power will be reduced, especially in poor weather, but at least 90 percent of the power should be retained.
What kind of 1/4 mile Ets and trap speeds should I run at Bpu(Tm)-only?
It varies Widely depending on driver skill. As well as track conditions, elevation above sea level, ambient temperatures, humidity, and pre-race preparation. But most fall between 12.3 to 12.9 ets with 112 to 119mph trap speeds on road tires. Times can drop well into the 11s with drag radials, a good driver, and good conditions, as well as allowable pre-race preparation.
What is a Bpu(Tm)'d Supra Tt's top speed?
Speeds in the mid-high 180mph range should be achievable. Once the speed-limiter is disabled, by pulling the "Trac" fuse of course.
Will the life of my machine and Drivetrain be adversely affected with the Bpu(Tm) mods?
Yes, but not by a needful amount. If the car is maintained properly, and the car is treated with some respect for the components, you should articulate much of the power train's life. Which considering the fact that the Supra is by far one of the most dependable and durable sports cars, it will last longer than most well maintained Stock sports cars. The only Drivetrain components that will see a significantly shortened life will be the stock clutch. It will more than likely not last much longer than 8-10k miles once at Bpu(Tm). This especially holds true if the car is development repeated high speed runs using 5th and 6th gear at wide open throttle. If your stock clutch has high mileage on it, or is already beginning to slip, you will need to plan on a new high-performance clutch. Also the stock turbos will be subject to a somewhat shortened life span (how short will depend on how you drive and articulate the car, as well as how much boost you will run)
What's the reliability of a 600hp Supra Turbo?
Chassis, electrical, and suspension components should see itsybitsy effect on reliability on road driven Supras. The stock 2Jz-Gte machine should hold up pretty well to this power level. Just how long depends on maintenance, and how hard you drive it, and how often. But typically Supras can go for years at this power level. The transmission reliability will depend on whether it's an automatic or Manual. A stock automatic will not hold this much power, a built transmission will be required, and it's reliability will depend on it's found and construction. The 6spd manual should hold up just fine, as well as the rear differential and axles.
The only real reliability concerns at these low power levels would surround the actual modifications you perform. Excluding factory short-comings, the components utilized, even very high capability ones, may fall short of factory component reliability, as the built in compromises that exist in everything, would lean more towards the side of ultimate performance, than of ultimate reliability (Keep in mind we are talking about a Toyota here, whose reliabilty standards are exceptionally high) This may contain fuel principles components, turbo components, and especialy electronic wizardry. Basically a set-up that is whether Very well concieved, or utilizes Oe components as much as possible, without over burdening them, would posses *near* stock reliability. And tuning of the components, and component selection, and matching, would play a Huge role in this.
What are the power limits of the varied factory components (Differential, Transmission, Motor, etc.)?
There have nothing else but not been adequate failures to nothing else but pin point a limit for the varied power-train components. The motor could fail at factory power levels if it was running dangerously lean. But when well tuned, the motors internals (Pistons, Rods, Crank, Head Gasket etc) are dependable to 700rwhp. But of policy at these power levels, if the machine is not set-up and tuned properly, it is nothing else but a bomb waiting to go off, however this would be just as true with a built motor. Some owners have pushed their stock internals to the limit and have well exceeded 800rwhp, and even approached 900rwhp. I still don't understand how such an over built motor made it past the bean counters at Toyota Corporate.
The 6-speed Getrag is ridiculously strong for an Oe transmission. Its limit's will be affected greatly by driving technique, such as launching, and whether or not power shifting is used. Even driven hard, the Getrag should hold up reasonably well with 700Rwhp. If you treat it with some respect, it should be able to cope around 800Rwhp or more, although great care and respect will need to be practiced at those levels.
Differential, axle, Cv Joint, and drive shaft failures are a Very rare occurrence. So I don't have much info on their failure limits. On road tires, it would be roughly impossible to break any of these components at Any power level. The tires would spin before they would put the driveline under that kind of strain. The tires act sort of like a circuit breaker. If you run drag slicks, this does not hold true of course, yet they have proven themselves to be 10 and even 9 second capable.
Will drivability, interior noise levels, and low-end power be adversely affected with the Bpu(Tm) mods?
Drivability is not adversely affected. Interior noise level depends on the exhaust principles you choose. Some will make it far louder; some will nothing else but make it quieter. But most are just a itsybitsy bit louder than stock. But the added dBs are also combined with a Much sweeter exhaust note, so it's certainly worth it. And the interior of the Supra is pretty quiet anyway, so on the highway, it will be Very livable. As far as low-end power goes, the down-pipe will greatly decrease Turbo Lag. So low-end power and response is much improved over stock.
Will emissions be adversely affected by the Bpu(Tm) mods?
As long as a high-flow cat is used, emissions should not be effected, and you should still pass optical inspection. If you run without catalytic converters, you are doing so at your own risk, and you would not pass optical or emissions testing.
Will fuel mileage be adversely affected by the Bpu(Tm) mods?
If driven calmly, as in light throttle, mileage should not be significantly affected. Mileage will greatly decrease during however, if you drive "vigorously", more power equals more burned fuel I am afraid.
Should I install an "Intake" (Open Element Filter)?
This is a bit of a yes and no answer. The stock filter assembly is a flow restriction, and an open element intake would increase possible flow. However, it will also draw in more heated machine compartment air, which can hurt performance. My advice is to whether modify the stock filter box, or install a cool air induction box, like the Max Air. An added bonus of the open element filters, is that they allow you to nothing else but hear the primary turbo and by-pass valve.
What about the stock intercooler?
The stock intercooler does a decent job up till about 17psi on the stock turbos, after that you would probably consideration a needful gain, especially in warmer temperatures, with a nice front mount intercooler. However, keep in mind it will block some of the airflow to the radiator, as well as decreasing response slightly.
Should I replace the factory rubber Intercooler hoses with aftermarket metal hoses?
It wouldn't hurt. But it won't help a lot either. At the most you may slightly increase throttle response, but at least it will look nicer.
What about the fuel system, are the stock injectors and fuel pump large adequate for Bpu(Tm)?
Yes, the stock fuel principles is very safe and dependable to 450Rwhp, although I would suggest a fuel pulsation damper bypass. whatever over that, and I would extremely suggest having the car dyno'd, and using a wide-band O2 sensor (not a cheap A/F gauge associated to the stock O2) to check the fuel ratio at your high boost setting. 11.5:1 would be a safe fuel ratio.
What are the stock injectors rated at?
540cc/min
Would the Supra benefit from a fuel controller?
Bpu(Tm)'d Supras run a itsybitsy on the rich side as far as fuel ratios go. This hurts power. What it does do is contribute a safety margin that makes machine damage through detonation unlikely. If you get a fuel controller, and tune it properly (on a dyno, with an exact Egt gauge, and a high band O2 (The Stock O2 sensors are not accurate), then you should be able to gain a noticeable whole of power. One of the most favorite electronic fuel controllers is the A'Pexi S-Afc. The Fields Sfc is good too.
What should I use to increase my boost level, an Electronic Boost Controller, or a manual Bc?
Using an Ebc is the safest way to raise boost, it will forestall spiking and over-boosting. But it nothing else but comes down to your budget. If you can afford an Ebc, get one. If you can't, go with a Mbc. And all the time keep an eye on that boost gauge. And whatever you are using to operate boost, remember to not get carried away, I don't suggest going usually over 18psi.
What is the best Electronic Boost Controller?
There nothing else but is no Best. Although the A'Pexi Avc-R is a nice unit, it provides much more operate over boost than other Ebcs, but it is also more complicated to install, and tune. The new Blitz unit is also nice. Most of the large manufacturers make decent units. Just avoid fuzzy-logic qualified models if you still have the sequential stock turbos, they will come to be "confused" by the unnatural behavior of the sequential system.
When installing my Ebc, do I connect it to both of the Turbo's Wastegates?
The primary Turbo is the only one with a wastegate. When in full twin turbo mode, the boost of both Turbos is regulated by the primary turbo's wastegate. So, only connect it to the Primary's.
Some habitancy say I need to replace my Ecu with a reprogrammed one, instead of just using a boost controller. Do I?
Reprogrammed Ecus for the Supra Tt are Very $$$. They are in the 00 range. And they have not been proven to contribute a needful increase in operation or safety on Bpu(Tm) level cars. Their merit shows itself on cars with upgraded Turbo(s). Just be sure you buy your Ecu, or have it reprogrammed by a reputable shop that knows what they are doing. And have it tailored to your particular car (Driving habits, and Mods). And I would also suggest taking a look at the Aem Programmable system.
What is a safe boost level to run at Bpu(Tm)?
The normal consensus is 17-18psi. Some habitancy have taken it higher, but I don't suggest it if you don't have the money for a turbo replacement/upgrade.
Which Down-Pipe is recommended?
The Rmm (or Rod Millen Motorsports) Cat-less Downpipe is the most commonly used. however many other brands exist. Some down-pipes, such as the Random Technology Dp, highlight an emissions legal high-flow catalytic converter.
Will a high-flow cat hurt performance?
It will have some effect on power output, but not a lot. Its exact effect on Hp is not clear, but it probably costs a few hp at the most, maybe 5-15hp at Bpu(Tm) power levels.
What is a Down-Pipe?
It is the section of the exhaust principles that connects the outlet of the Turbocharger's Turbine section to the "Cat-Back" exhaust system. The Downpipe is also where the two catalytic converters are located, as well as the O2 sensor (or sensors in Obd-Ii cars).
I have an Obd2 car. Can I still install a Down-Pipe?
Yes. But unless the Dp has a Catalyst and a second location for an O2 sensor, you will trip your check machine light, unless you get one of those O2 "black boxes".
Which Exhausts are the loudest?
The Tanabe Racing Medallion, and Hks Hiper Titanium seem to be the two loudest systems.
Which Exhausts are the quietest?
The Tanabe Hyper Medallion, the discontinued Tanabe G-Power Medallion and the Greddy (Sp) road operation seem to be the quietest. At whatever less than full throttle, they are no louder than stock. But at full throttle they seem to "wake up" a bit.
What are some recommended exhaust systems?
It depends on your personal preferences. Below I will break down some of my recommendations based on unavoidable combinations of preferences.
Subtle Styling / Very Low Cost:
-Random Technology (75mm, full stainless steel)
Subtle Styling / Low Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-Greddy road operation (80mm)
-Tanabe Super Hyper Medallion (80mm, full stainless steel, 50-state legal)
Subtle Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-Atr (75mm, full stainless steel)
Tasteful Styling / Low-Moderate Sound Level / Low Cost:
-Hks Dragger Ii (85mm)
Tasteful Styling / Low-Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-Greddy Power ultimate (80-94mm)
-Hks Super Dragger (95mm)
Tasteful Appearance / Moderate Sound Level / High Cost / Super Light:
-Veilside Tear Drop Titanium (90mm, full titanium)
Tasteful-Wild Styling / Low Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-Trd 2nd gen.
Wild Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Low Cost:
-A'Pexi N1
-Hks Hiper (75mm)
Wild Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-A'Pexi Gt Spec (95mm, full stainless steel)
-Blitz Nur Spec (80mm, full stainless steel)
-Hks Hiper Carbon/Titanium (75mm, Cf wrapped muffler, titanium tip)
Wild Styling / High Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-Tanabe Racing Medallion (80mm, 50 state legal)
Wild Styling / High Sound Level / High Cost / High Flow:
-Hks Hiper Titanium (104mm, titanium muffler)
What is the cheapest route to replacing the Dp and Cat-Back?
Have a institution operation exhaust shop found a unblemished 3" exhaust principles (Turbo-to-Tip). It should cost well less that 0. And then you can use the muffler and exhaust tip of your choice.
Which Fuel Cut Eliminator is recommended?
The Greddy Bcc (Boost Cut Controller) is extremely recommended.
What does the Fuel Cut Eliminator do?
The factory Ecu is programmed to set in motion a fuel cut if the manifold pressure exceeds 14-15psi. It does this as a safety quantum to forestall what the Ecu sees as over boosting. The Fuel Cut Eliminator effectively eliminates, or at least raises the cut to a higher pressure. A reprogrammed Ecu can also eliminate this function.
Which boost gauge is recommended?
Any high capability boost gauge will work well. Accuracy is the leading highlight to look for. Autometer gauges are a good value. The Japanese gauges, A'Pexi, Greddy, Hks, etc., have more features, but at a much higher price.
Where can the boost gauge be installed in the interior?
If you want to mount it in the dash, the two most favorite places are the Clock location (which holds a 52mm gauge), and the Air Vent beside it (which holds a 60mm gauge). You can also use an A-Pillar gauge pod.
What is the stock boost pressure?
11-12psi
Are Cam Gears a good modification for the Supra Tt?
Yes, they have been shown to contribute a 5-15rwhp gain on a Bpu(Tm)'d car. But to extract their potential, you must have them tuned, by a knowledgeable tuner, on a dyno. And most of the power gains will be seen on the exhaust side. I also suggest buying cam gears which highlight 5-bolts.
Are Under Drive Pulley(s) a good modification for the Supra Tt?
Most of the crank-shaft under-drive pulleys wish the removal of the factory torsional damper.
This is from Mkiv.com :"this is Not an external (harmonic) balancer, as the crankshaft is fully balanced, rather it dampens both the axial twisting couples produced by the firing pulses, and the radial bending occasion from the accessory drive belt."
Basically this gismo provides crutial isolation between the machine driven accessories, and the crankshaft. However, removal of this can contribute a 10-15rwhp gain, but at a cost for long term use.
Do I need to upgrade the ignition when upgrading to Bpu(Tm)?
The stock ignition principles is Very capable of supplying adequate fire for a Bpu(Tm)'d car. The stock ignition principles uses 6 large coils, one for each cylinder. So the principles is capable of supporting Very impressive Hp levels. You may need to convert to a colder range plug with a tighter gap (see below).
What about the spark plugs, which are recommended at Bpu(Tm) or higher level?
Basically you want similar plugs as stock, but a cooler heat range and a smaller gap. The stock plugs are Ngk Bkr6Ep-11 (2978) and are platinum tipped and have a .044 (1.1mm) gap. The ideal Ngk replacement for a modified Supra would be the Bkr7E (6097). It is one range cooler (the '7'), is non-platinum tipped (the lack of the 'p') and has a smaller .0315 gap (lack of the '-11'). This plug is also called the Ngk 6097 and they are fairly inexpensive. Platinum tipped plugs are not desired for high power applications, Iridium plugs are more prefered. Unfortunately their doesn't seem to be a Bkr8E which might be best for high-Hp Supras.
Another good plug to try is the Denso Iridium Ik22 or Ik24. These plugs may last longer than the above mentioned Ngks, but are also 6 times as expensive. The stock replacement plug would be the Ik20, the Ik22 is one step cooler, and the Ik24 is two steps cooler than stock. The Ik22 would be good for ~400rwhp to ~600rwhp. The Ik24 would probably be a good choice above that. Two other plugs commonly used are the Ngk 3330 (Bcpr7Es) which differ much more from the specifications of the stock plugs than Ngk 6097. Also the Rapid Fire #5 used to be very popular, but are more expensive, don't last as long, and have fallin out of favor. Both of those plugs have been known to cause itsybitsy stumbling at idle. Plugs on Supras do not live long, usually around 5,000-10,000 miles. So I suggest replacing them with every other oil change.
What is the Hks Vpc and Gcc?
It is an electronic device, which electronically and physically removes the extremely restrictive mass airflow sensor from the intake tract. Vpc stands for Vein Pressure Converter. The Hks Gcc is a gismo that allows supplementary fine-tuning of the Vpc.
Do I need an after-market Blow off Valve?
It is not nothing else but required, but it is a good idea. The factory by-pass valve is prone to failure, and an aftermarket Bov is probably a wise speculation for preventing turbo damaging compressor surge. And it sounds cool too. However, it must be noted that if you still have the factory mass-air flow sensor, a blow-off valve, which is vented to the atmosphere, may cause stumbling between shifts.
Can I run Nitrous Oxide on the Supra Tt, even if I am already at Bpu(Tm) power levels?
Yes. Most habitancy run 50-75 shot wet manifold systems. If you want to run a higher shot than this, you might want to think a well-designed direct port system. I have seen as much as a 200-shot used on one of these systems, and an upgraded fuel principles would be a must.
450hp just isn't enough, what can I do?
Ah the possibilities Basically you are only itsybitsy by your imagination, and your wallet. You know what they say, speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?
The real power lies in particular and Twin turbo upgrades, and the options are limitless. You can whether build a mild motor that puts out 450 Rwhp all day long with instant boost response, or a 1000+ Rwhp monster.
Unfortunately, things start getting more difficult after simple Bpu(Tm) modifications. Modification becomes more than "bolt on Downpipe, gain 50hp". Things like tuning, parts selection, and matching combinations of parts come to be much more important. However, this is the case with Any high Hp car. Actually, even at exceptionally high power levels, the Supra Tt is still easier to extract power from than roughly any other operation car. But it should be kept in mind, that it wouldn't be as simple as the Bpu(Tm) bolt-ons.
If you just want something that will toast that pesky Viper Gts. Then focus on a mild particular turbo upgrade (T04S04, T60-1, Sp57-Sp61). Along with this, you should install a front mount intercooler, a fuel controller, fuel pulsation damper bypass and Egt gauge. This is assuming you have done all the Bpu(Tm) mods, plus Bov, Ebc, Cam Gears. With tuning, and a few odds and ends, you should be able to pull 450-500 Rwhp (490-580 crank Hp) numbers while on a stock fuel principles (assuming it is in great condition). This would be a total speculation of roughly ,700-,500 in engine/electronic components (also includes the allowable gauges). If you already have the Bpu(Tm) mods or Fmic, etc., you will spend less than this. The divergence in prices reflects the cost of higher end parts and increasing of a Hks Vpc to replace the restrictive stock Maf.
The next level would wish a fully upgraded fuel system, and operation cams would be recommended, as well as supplementary electronics (programmable machine administration such as the Aem, or Vpc/Gcc/Ecu combo, etc.). This would allow you to run much larger turbos and injectors. You can make it past the 700Rwhp range without needing to replace the internals of the motor with stronger components, even at these power levels, if properly tuned and maintained you should retain a fair whole of reliability while still on the stock internals, as some habitancy have eclipsed the 800Rwhp level while still running stock bottom ends in their Supras. If you pick to go ahead and build up the bottom end, then the skies are the limit as far as power goes. Just make sure to have part selection, installation, and tuning done by competent and experienced persons. Although this should hold true at Any level of modification.
Should I install a Turbo Timer?
Absolutely. Unless you don't mind sitting in your car while it idles down every particular time you need to turn the car off. A Turbo timer keeps the machine running for a preset time once you turn off the ignition. So you can take off your keys, and lock up the car and not have to worry about it, it will shut off on it's own. This is leading for the life of the turbos. If the turbos are not given time to cool down, it can overheat the oil and cause coking which will block oil flow to the turbos and damage bearings and cook seals.
How much is the Supra's power output affected by changes in ambient temperatures?
Very noticeably, just as with most turbo cars, the Supra Twin Turbo can be very climatic characteristic sensitive. Especially with the stock turbos and intercooler. On a Bpu(Tm) car, I would not be surprised to see a 10 percent allowance between 50-60deg temperatures, and 90deg plus temperatures
Will the stock clutch hold the power levels of a Bpu(Tm) car?
It depends on the health and wear on the stock clutch. If it is in good condition, yes, it will hold the power, pretty well in fact, although you may perceive clutch slip while at full boost in high gears such as 5th and 6th. If you drive vigorously, meaning you run at high boost frequently, then the life of the stocker will be Greatly shortened. Be surprised if you see an extra 10,000 miles after Bpu(Tm).
Can I resurface my flywheel when replacing the clutch?
It is not recommended. Buy a new Toyota Flywheel.
Can I install a lightweight flywheel?
Yes, but be aware that they can generate a lot of noise at idle, and can forward more vibrations and shock to the costly Getrag transmission.
Why is pulling the Trac fuse beneficial over just turning it off with the switch on the town console?
Just pushing the "Trac Off" button only partially disables the Trac system. It disables the Trac throttle body and Trac funtion through the Abs principles (on 93.5-96 only), but not the Trac system's ignition timing decelerate function. Unplugging the Trac fuse eliminates both functions, as well as the 155mph speed limiter, which works through the trac system. The fuse can be found in the main fuse box on the driver's side of the machine compartment. It must be noted that removing the fuse will cause the Trac light to stay on, but you'll get used to it.
Will the Trac principles improve the cars performance?
No. The Trac principles was calibrated to improve traction in glossy conditions. It was not calibrated with operation in mind. When the Trac principles senses a loss of traction, it comes on hard, cutting power drastically; this will do nothing but hurt performance. I also would not rely on the Trac principles for providing stability at high speeds, if you were to loose control, it would be too slow and clumsy, and would more than likely hamper your efforts to regain control.
How can I take off the factory 155mph speed limiter?
Remove the fuse for the Trac system. The speed limiter works through the Trac throttle body.
What is the Supra Tt's top speed with the Trac fuse removed?
There is some consider on this subject. There are rumors that 180 can be achieved. But by going with the numbers, 168-172mph in stock form seems possible.
What is the Supra Tt's maximum theoretical top speed? Can it exceed 200mph with adequate power?
Lets find out.
The Supra Tt with the 6-speed has a stock machine redline of 6800rpm, and a 6th gear ratio of .79:1, with a rear axle ratio of 3.13:1. Now we multiply our 6th gear ratio times our rear axle ratio, and we find out our final gear ratio is 2.472:1. Now we divide 6800rpm by our total gear allowance of 2.472:1 and we find out our rear axles, and therefore wheels are spinning at 2751rpm at 6800 machine rpms.
Now we need to intuit our tire circumference. The rear tires section width it 255mm, and the sidewall's aspect ratio is .40, so our sidewalls are 102mm. Now, to convert this to inches, we divide this by 25.4, which equal's 4.015 inches. Now multiply this by two, since we have two sidewalls development up the total diameter, and add the wheel diameter of 17", and we see a total diameter of 25.031 inches. Now to find out our circumference, we multiply that whole times pi (3.14), and we find out the circumference is 78.59 inches, now divide that by 12 to convert to feet. And we get 6.549 feet total circumference.
Now multiply our tire's revolving speed, by the tire's outside circumference, and we find that the tire is outside 18,016 feet per minute, divide that by the 5280 feet in a mile, and we find we are outside 3.412 miles per minute, now multiply that by the 60 minutes in an hour, and we find we are traveling 204.7miles per hour @ 6800rpm in 6th gear. If the engines redline is increased to 7500rpm, which it often is, because of a higher flowing turbo. Then our maximum speed would be 225.8mph, given adequate power of course.
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